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Friendly, Factual Tortoise Care for Beginners

Welcome to The Tortoise Spot. This quick roadmap helps you pick the right species, set up a safe habitat, feed properly, and recognize health warning signs—all without overwhelm or expensive mistakes. Follow these basics now, and give your tortoise a life full of energy, comfort, and growth.

Quick Facts

• Most Tortoise & Turtle species need UVB + heat gradient in their enclosures. A heat pad will not do, and is unsafe if used improper.
• Diet: Depending on the species consist of Grasses, Leafy Greens, Weeds like dandelions, and commercial style pellets. Protein for turtles mostly, which can be eggs, chicken, worms, mealworms, and a long list. Fruits are a good snack and should not be fed often.
• Basking : This is species dependent. Desert species ~ 94*F- ~96*F, Forest species ~ 83*F- ~ 89*F… These are basking areas, make sure to provide a temperature gradient and a cool side.
• Calcium: 2x a week if the Tortoise or Turtle is indoors or younger than 2. I do less as they grow and depending on diet.
• Outdoor Vs. Indoor: Both Have pros and cons- No wrong or right if set up properly.

New to the site & New to Tortoises and Turtles? Do these steps first… 1,2,3.

1) Identify your species

Not sure what species to get or what species you have? check out the list I started of common Tortoise and Turtle species. I will keep adding to it, but it is possible your species is already on this page/list.

2) Read the full care guide

Once you found a species that might work for you, or found the species you already have it’s time to do some research on care. I started to make quick care guides for some of the more common species and like for the profiles I plan to keep adding to these as I go. Check out the care sheet for your species now!

3) Check your current setup

Enclosure and set up is one of the most important thing. I made this page that just goes over enclosures. It goes over quick things like indoor, outdoor, lighting, and other basics. Check it out and see if you have the basics covered. I will keep adding tips, tricks and other things i learned over time and as I go.

Picking the Right Species –

Before you pick a species make sure you do research, research and research. If you have questions do not be scared to ask and reach out to the community. You can always contact me and I can try and help any way I can. Below I Put a list of what I believe to be beginner species. You can check the species profile page for more species.

Beginner-friendly options

• Russian Tortoise– A small species that stays under 10 inches on average. They hibernate and can handle heat and cold well. A great species that is readily available and I think is great for a entry level tortoise.
• Greek Tortoise– Also a small species and fairly hardy. They stay small roughly 8-10 inches and can handle a wide range of temperatures. Not as common as the Russian tortoise but many people have captive bred babies available.
• Hermann’s Tortoise– Just like the Greek tortoise actually commonly confused with the Greek tortoise the Hermann tortoise is small and hardy. There are many breeders out there that specialize in these beautiful little tortoises.
• Leopard Tortoise– The leopard tortoise is a medium to large tortoise. They do not hibernate and do not handle cold weather well. That all being said I still think if set up right they can make great tortoises and they are fairly hardy where I think they make a great beginner species if you have the space and willing to make a good setup.

Think twice about these

• Sulcata Tortoise– This tortoise is the 3rd largest tortoise in the world, and is very commonly available. They are diggers and can burrow 10 feet into the ground. If you aren’t willing to provide a good enclosure and the needs this species can be difficult to keep. Think twice because as babies they can cost as low as $50.
• Red-Footed Tortoise— This tortoise also is fairly common. They are a medium sized tortoise getting to 14-15 inches. Think twice because they are tropical species and will need to be kept warm all year round. They also like higher humidity and if its to hot it can be difficult to keep them. Great species if you can provide.

Enclosures & Lighting Must Needs

Enclosure size & layout

• Hatchlings – Juveniles : Tortoise tables are great, or a closed chamber style enclosure. 3ft x 2ft for hatchlings. 4ftx2ft for Juvies.
• Provide – Basking spot, Hides (multiple hides), water dish. These are the main parts of any enclosure.

If you are still unsure on enclosure size, check out the Tortoise & Turtle Enclosure Size Guide written to help answer any questions.

Enclosure outdoor vs. Indoor

• Indoor Enclosure– Indoors is best for hatching or juvenile housing. Growing tortoises up to a decent size to safely go outside is idea. If you have to house adults indoor due to yard restriction aim for smaller species like Russians, Hermann’s and Greek tortoises. Ideally You want to try and have outdoor enclosures for adults. If you want to learn a little more about Indoor Tortoise Enclosures here is a guide I wrote to help.
• Outdoor Enclosure– This is the most idea housing situation for tortoises. They require a lot of space to roam and graze. Natural sunlight and microclimates also play a role in overall health. Here is an Outdoor Tortoise Enclosure Guide that goes over some of the essential for a good outdoor enclosure for your tortoise.

Heat & UVB

• Basking lamp for heat, you can use a bulb that give no UVB just heat, or what I like to use are heat emitters that give no light off. I also pair it with a thermostat to prevent overheating.
• Lighting- A UVB bulb is needed for indoor enclosures. I use 5.0 florescent tube for forest low light species, and a MVP or 10.0 florescent tube UVB bulb for desert species.
• Night temps usually do not require light—use ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat to keep night time temperatures in range. This is important for younger species.

Substrate & humidity

• Depending on the species: For forest high humidity loving species I like to go with a soil, coco core, sand, moss mix. I also will keep it moist with misters as time goes on. For dryer species I tend to go with a soil sand mix, but more sand. I also will use some flat rock and not keep the substrate as moist. Indoors is always tough.
• Humidity: This is important for all species. I like to make micro climates that have pockets of humidity. Hydrometers to help track humidity helps as well as misters, or foggers to keep things up if needed.

Substrate is a important choice when it comes to providing the right home and space for your tortoise pet. Learn more on what is the Best Substrate For Tortoises Here.

If you want to deep dive on all Habitat and Enclosure ideas, and subject this section of the website is dedicated to just that.

Diet & Nutrition (Feed Like a Keeper)

Providing the right nutrition is one of the most important parts of keeping healthy tortoises. Most tortoise species thrive on a high-fiber, plant-based diet made up of weeds, leafy greens, flowers, and grasses.

Because diets can vary by species, it’s important to understand what foods are safe, what foods should be limited, and what foods should be avoided altogether.

If you’re new to tortoise diets, start with our complete guide:

What Do Tortoises Eat?

Tortoise Core Diet:

Providing the right nutrition is one of the most important parts of keeping healthy tortoises. Most tortoise species thrive on a high-fiber, plant-based diet made up of weeds, leafy greens, flowers, and grasses.

Because diets can vary by species, it’s important to understand what foods are safe, what foods should be limited, and what foods should be avoided altogether.

If you’re new to tortoise diets, start with our complete guide:
What Do Tortoises Eat?

Foods to Limit or Avoid

Fruit:

Fruit should be fed very sparingly for most tortoise species.

While tropical species like red-foot tortoises, yellow-foot tortoises, and some mountain tortoises can handle fruit better, it should still be treated as an occasional treat rather than a regular food.

Learn more:

• Can Tortoises Eat Strawberries?
• Can Tortoises Eat Bananas?
• Can Tortoises Eat Watermelon?
• Can Tortoises Eat Mango?

High-Oxalate Greens:

Some greens contain high levels of oxalates, which can interfere with calcium absorption if fed too often.

Examples include:

• Spinach
• Kale
• Certain beans and legumes

These foods should only be offered occasionally.

You can read more here:

• Can Tortoises Eat Spinach?
• Can Tortoises Eat Kale?

Commercial Pellet Diets:

Many commercial tortoise foods exist, but they should never replace fresh plants and greens.

Personally, I use Mazuri Tortoise Diet and Mazuri Turtle Diet about twice a week, mainly as a supplement rather than a primary food.

Fresh weeds and greens should always remain the foundation of a tortoise diet.

Supplements & hydration

Proper hydration and calcium intake are essential for healthy tortoise growth and shell development.

Calcium:

Calcium supplements help prevent metabolic bone disease and shell problems.

My typical routine:

Soaking Hatchling:

Young tortoises can dehydrate easily, so regular soaking is important.

I typically soak hatchlings 3 times per week in lukewarm water for about 10–15 minutes.

This helps:

• maintain hydration
• support digestion
• encourage healthy growth

You can also read more in this guide:

Signs of Dehydration in Tortoises

Fresh water dishes should also be available in every enclosure at all times, and cleaned daily. Fresh water is a very crucial and important part of a tortoise health.

Learn More About Tortoise Diets

If you’d like to explore more foods and feeding guides, visit the full diet hub:

Tortoise Diet & Nutrition Guides

This section includes detailed guides like:

• Can tortoises eat vegetables?
• Can tortoises eat fruits?
• Safe plants for tortoises
• Toxic foods for tortoises

Health & Red Flags (When to Call a Vet)

Watch for these signs

• RI- Respiratory Infection- common symptoms- Wheezing, bubbles at nose, lethargy.
• Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)– Puffy eyes, anorexia, soft shell, abnormal poops/urates caused by lack of calcium and vitamins.
• Rapid weight loss or not gaining can be signs of illness like parasites. Use a scale to track weight if you feel a tortoise is ILL or if you have a younger tortoise that is growing.

Gear We Trust (Starter Kit)

Must-haves

• Enclosure Lighting & Heating – UVB, MVB, and heat emitters are all things we like to use for our tortoises and Turtles.
• Thermometer and Hydrometers – The perfect way to track temperatures and humidity, can use digital or analog.
• Substrate- Many brands out there and this being a core part of a enclosure its good to pick one you trust.

Nice-to-have Gear:

• Temperature gun– Highly affordable and a easy way to check temperatures of enclosures and basking areas. Perfect if you have multiple enclosure you have to check. (time saver)
• UVB meter – Not affordable and kind of pricey but if you keep reptiles indoor it can be a game changer. lets you know how much UVB your lights are putting off.

For more: Check out my reviews on Gear (Lights, Thermometers, hides, and everything in-between.)

Avoid These Common Mistakes

⚠️ Don’t let these slip past you — they cause most beginner problems.

• ❌ Using glass aquariums without ventilation or space.
• ❌ Fruit-heavy diets or iceberg lettuce as main food.
• ❌ Weak or improperly placed UVB bulbs; skipping UVB entirely.
• ❌ Incorrect basking temperatures or no cool zone.
• ❌ No hides or shade → stress & heat issues.
• ❌ Bringing home species without knowing adult size or climate needs.

FAQs Section

Keep Learning (Next Steps)

 you’re new to tortoise keeping, start with our Beginner’s Guide to Tortoise Care before choosing your species.

• Full Care Guide → /care-guides/
• Diet & Nutrition → /diet/
• Habitat & Enclosures → /habitat/
• Gear Reviews → /gear-reviews/