This guide explains how to set up a proper indoor tortoise enclosure with correct lighting, heating, substrate, and space requirements to support long-term health and growth.
Indoor Enclosure Size & Space Required for tortoises:
General rule of thumb:
- Hatchling & Younger Tortoise: I like to use a close chamber enclousre for hatchlings. I use a 50 gallon tote and keep the lid on it. I also use bioactive substrate to help with clean up.
- Smaller Species: russians, hermann’s, Greek tortoises are great examples of smaller species. I would go no smaller than 4x2ft as far as footprint. Bigger is better and this is just for 1 tortoise.
- Medium Species: Leopard Juvies, Red foot Juvies, Star tortoises are examples of this size tortoise. I would go minimum 6x3ft for enclosure size for one. Bigger is better and we are getting close to the size of going outdoors if not already.
- Aquatic Turtles: Aquariums are interesting for aquatic turtles. Popular rule of thumb is 1 gallon for every inch of turtle. Of course this depends on species and habitat but fully aquatic turtles love to swim and bigger species should really have a pond.
- Larger Species: Aldabras, Sulcatas both are to big as adults to be kept indoor. Larger species should be kept outdoor and provided a heated hide or room for cooler months and days. Only time larger species should be kept indoor are in emergency or when they are younger and smaller.
Key Principles:
- For turtles and tortoises floor space and floor area is more important than height. Go for area and floor space over height when making a indoor enclosure.
- Tortoise Tables and Closed Chambers are great for indoor enclosures. Try and avoid glass aquariums or glass sides. Its harder to regulate aquariums without the right equipment.
- Secure sides and solid sides are best. This will keep a tortoise from pacing and stressing. I sometimes will use opaque sided enclosures without a problem.
- Airflow is important when it come to enclosures. Only time I use my closed chambers are for younger tortoises and hatchlings.
- Pro tip- Outdoor is best for any tortoise of any size. if you can provide it and or if your tortoise is old enough try to plan for a outdoor enclosure. I made a quick outdoor enclosure overview post, check it out below.
Heating & Temperature Gradients:
This is important for proper digestion and everyday activities. Being cold blooded tortoises need to warm up to get the day going. Check out a good food list that also helps with digestion.
You need:
- Basking Spot: This is important for indoor enclosure as its a spot that provides your tortoise or turtle the opportunity to warm up.
- Ambient Warm side: This part of the enclosure is not as hot as the basking spot. This is a warm side usually kept around 80*F-85*F. This is part of the gradient needed for an indoor enclosure.
- Cooler side: This side is usually kept on the cooler side of the species cool temperature requirements. On average I would say its between 70*F-75*F or about room temperature. I like to have a hide on this side of the enclosure.
Essentials:
- Basking Bulb: Just like a basking spot you will need a basking bulb. This bulb usually is a bulb that gives off direct heat. It can range from 75W-150W depending on enclosure side. MVB are a good basking bulb that also puts out UVB, however a normal non UVB bulb works just find and is cheaper.
- Thermometers: These come in all shapes and sizes but they are essential to indoor enclosures. This allows you to keep a eye of enclosure temperatures and adjust as necessary. You don’t want to cook your pet so spend a few bucks on a thermometer. I like digital thermometers with the probs. But they do come in many forms.
- Temperature Gun: This is also nice to have so you can check spots throughout your enclosure. They are cheap enough to add to your reptile tools I would consider it essential.
- Wifi Switches/Timers: These are nice to have and I consider them essential especially the timers. This will allow you to set a good day and night cycle for your turtle or tortoise and keep the stress down. The wifi switches I started using and they are great if you have a extra light you want to manual turn on and off. Using your phone is a game changer.
Never Use:
- Hot Rocks: I don’t know if these things still exist or are around but these things are not good for any reptiles. Stay away from them as they can cause burning and or even a fire hazard. There are many other ways to provide heat and these rocks are a no no.
- Sand Substrate: Sand as a substrate is a big no no. I like to blend sand into the solid or substrate for drainage but its very little. Pure sand is not natural and to loose and sticky. Sand can also cause impaction and irritation. Do not use just sand as a substrate for your turtle or tortoise.
UVB Lighting:
Indoor enclosures must have UVB bulbs. This is needed for the tortoise and turtle to break down certain vitamins and to grow healthy. It mimics sunlight and is not a option but requirement.
Type of bulbs:
- Florescent Tube Light (T5-T10): These are great lights and come in multiple sizes. Usually 12″-48+” in size. I like to use these on my indoor enclosures to spread out the UVB through out the enclosure. I like to use 5.0 or 10.0 strength depending on the species.
- Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB): These are a heat bulb that come in 100W, 150W maybe stranger. They get hot and also put out UVB. I like to use these on bigger indoor enclosures and species that don’t need high humidity requirments.
- Coil UVB bulbs: These lights use to cause eye issues because of the way the light came off the coil. I believe they fixed this problem and the coil bulbs are safe. They are great for a compact UVB bulb. I never used them but depending on situation they may work for you.
Bulb replacements:
- Make sure you replace your UVB bulb every 6-12 Months. UVB bulbs will stop putting out UVB over time and will have to be replaced to keep your pet happy.
- UVB meters: These are expensive but if you can get one they are great. You can use them to see if your bulb is still putting out UVB or not. This overtime can save you time as you are not guessing when replacing bulbs.
Substrate & Humidity:
Good substrate options:
Below I will list individual substrates. Note I usually mix and blend substrates depending on species and needs.
Good Substrates:
- Soil: I use plain soil with no fertilizer or perlite or anything added to it. Organic plain soil is best option when it comes to soil substrate.
- Coco Coir: This is the husk of coconuts and its grounded up into a substrate. It works great and acts almost like moss/soil. I like to use this along with soil as the core to most blends.
- Cypress Mulch: Make sure to use chemical free cypress mulch. Mulch works great in blends as well and if you have forest type species it works well.
- Sand: This has to be blended. I use this in a lot of different blends and depending on the species is how much I use. It helps with drainage and helps keep air in the soil.
Avoid:
- Sand Alone: this is dangerous because it very sticky and tortoise and turtles can accidently eat it and get impacted. If you use any sand make sure to blend it in with soil and other substrates.
- Wood Shavings: Pine and cedar wood shavings are not great. They can be dusty and cause irritation or respiration irritation. Also they tend to wick out moisture from the air and if they get wet they can mold.
- Reptile Carpet: this seems to be a good easy to keep clean alternative, but It does not provide anything. Turtles and tortoises like to burrow and need humidity even if just relative humidity. Reptile carpet does not allow any moisture to be held also it does not allow tortoises or turtles to dig down.
Tools to help:
- Hydrometer: Use a hydrometer to read the humidity levels. This will help you accurately see what humidity levels are and if you need to add moisture or if its just fine.
- Spray bottles: You can use a classic spray bottle or one with a pump but they work great to spray down a dry enclosure or to create a small rain shower. This can stimulate feeding for tortoises.
- Fog machines, humidifiers: These can be used in really dry areas and if you are keeping species that need high constant humidity. Usually they have built in sensors or timers and you set them to where you want the humidity levels to be.
Hides, Enrichment & Security:
Indoor Enclosures should all include:
- Hides: I like to put at least two hides. One on the cool end one on the warm end. If you have a small enclosure or space is tight, one hide will work, I would keep it right between the warm and cool side.
- Natural Obstacles: This can be plants, different levels of substrate (hills, mounds) drift wood or wood logs, Rocks, etc.. This will create visual barriers and enrichment for your turtle or tortoise.
- Edible plants: This is harder indoors but if you can grow or rotate editable plants in the enclosure this can provide some grazing and enrichment. More advance level.
Why have enrichment?
- Prevents Pacing and bordom
- Prevents Stress and keeps the day to day of a tortoise or turtles life fresh.
- Stimulates a tortoises or turtles way of thinking and handling situations.
Water & Soaking:
Land Tortoise:
- Shallow dish: Keep water dishes shallow for tortoises. Most tortoises cannot swim well and should have shallow water dishes with sloped sides.
- Soaking: For young and juvenile tortoises soaking should be done. You can do it every other day or every 3 days depending on age. Use a shallow dish with warm water and put your tortoise in there for 10 mins. This will ensure they stay hydrated and grow well.
Aquatic Turtles:
- Filtration: Make sure to have proper filtration for your aquarium or pond system. Fresh water is important and even more important when you live in it.
- Basking Spot: this needs to be out of the water and allow the turtle to come out of the water and fully dry off. This is a must as most turtles will grow fungus or rot if they cannot fully dry off and bask.
- Extra Filtration: Turtles have a higher bio load than fish and most filters are rated for fish binloads. Always double or triple the filter rate for a turtle. Custom filters are a good way to go as well and can be cheaper.
Final Thoughts:
This was a quick post I wanted to make on indoor enclosures. I might add stuff to it over time but I think I went over the basics and touched on what I think every indoor enclosure should have. I think 90 percent of turtles and tortoise belong outside when warm and I always recommend striving for a outdoor enclosure. I will be making a post on that very soon and you will be able to find it here.
Where next?
- Full Care Guide →
/care-guides/ - Diet & Nutrition →
/diet/ - Habitat & Enclosures →
/habitat/ - Gear Reviews →
/gear-reviews/